Refinishing Tips

I have used the brushable 2 part Interthane Plus paint on my boats. It is a little tricky weather wise, as it will flat out if too cold. Use the correct thinner and you'll be ok. Spray thinner works well when brushing in colder temps.

I just wanted to make the point of using the best primer you can. The U.S. Paints Awlgrip is fantastic, and the extra weight of 2 coats will be worth it in keeping water out of the laminate. Interthane goes over the Awlgrip primer fine, of course. With these paints make sure to do the step where you let the paint sit for 10 min. after mixing to help it begin to kick. Don't try using a cheap foam roller, as it will melt and fill your paint with foam pieces. WEAR A RESPIRATOR, not a dust mask!

John Dean:

I used Petit "EasyPoxy" on my boat and am very satisfied with the result. The good appearance is frequently commented upon. I painted all of the hull maroon, and all of the tanks and interior with medium grey. I applied the paint with a small (4" wide) foam roller to get even paint distribution, and then over brushed to get a smooth finish. The brush strokes "flattened" out very satisfactorily.

The marine paint guys all assume the boat stays in the water, so they recommend paint for bottom/topside application based on that assumption. We need to use one of the topside products on a 505 because antifouling paints are toxic and, generally have a soft finish that is unsuitable for the handling the boat gets. The soft finish is probably bad for speed too, but I am really unsure of that.

To add something about the Petit "EasyPoxy": it is reasonably "easy" but it is not in any way "epoxy". It is a marine grade synthetic enamel that contains some urethane in the formulation. It is a "single part" paint with reasonable shelf life after opening: several months if tightly capped. Warnings about toxic fumes and a tendency to dissolve portions of any plastic applicators (i.e. foam rollers) are very pertinent to many "paint" systems, including probably all of the two part epoxy or urethane systems, but this paint is not in that category. Use a respirator if you use it in a "close" or poorly ventilated area, but the thinning solvent is turpentine. You do not thin it if you apply it with a roller/brush. I believe you would thin it if you use a sprayer.

I do not know about "Awlgrip", but it sounds like it is very durable. The two part epoxies and urethanes are very durable. But they are very expensive and very much more difficult to apply. Easypoxy is economical, easy to use, reasonably durable, and easy to touch up when you do get a scuff mark: a good choice for the do-it-yourself 505 owner. It still looks new after 2 years. The professional painter will choose the other stuff because he has the tools and the techniques down pat. He also gets paid for the material and his reputation depends on the (expensive) paint job being durable and long lasting.

Robbie Van Landingham:

After many years managing a boatyard I can say that nothing beats the durability and finish of a properly applied urethane paint (Awlgrip, Imron, Sterling, etc.) with "properly" being the operative word here. To get that perfect finish usually requires many hours of prep: careful filling and fairing of all surface scratches and irregularities, and usually two applications of 545 sanded to 320 grit. Of all the urethane brands on the market, Imron is by far the easiest to apply (they all should be sprayed) and it is the only product that can be touched up after incurring those starting line and docking scratches. It is also readily available at most auto body supply stores as it is used extensively in automotive applications (there are different grades of the paint so be sure to request the marine grade). You also may be able to do the prep yourself and then find a body shop to spray the urethane for you (Imron can be spayed over 545). Awlgrip is the most durable of the urethanes but also the hardest to spray and it can not be touched up and faired back into the original finish. I would only recommend using a very experienced marine painter for spraying Awlgrip.

There are some two part brushable urethanes on the market - Interthane by International Paints is one and I have seen some brush jobs that rival any spray job. There again the secret is in the prep work and having a dust free area to work in. It is usually applied by foam (make sure the foam is adaptable to urethane paints!)roller and tipped off with a high quality brush. I too have had experience with the Pettit Easypoxy (I just recently painted the interior of my boat with it) and it is a very good product. I used a foam brush and got a decent finish. My only complaints about the product is it is not nearly as durable as a true urethane - one weekend of sailing and I had numerous scratches throughout the cockpit however touch up is piece of cake. I also made the mistake of painting a vertical surface with an air temp of around 60 degrees and I did not get very good flow (there are still visible brush marks).

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