The all wood tanks were built with 3 layers of 1/16" veneer. Originally all three layers were sitka spruce, but we swiched to a mahogany top layer to make the tanks more impact resistant. The early tanks were fit (each piece of veneer has to be tapered at the ends to fit tightly against the previous piece) and laminated one layer at a time, using epoxy and microballons for the bond, and staples to hold the veneer to the mold (What a pain!!!). Later on we sealed the tank molds and started laminating the tanks in one shot using a vacum pump for pressure, just stapling the edges to hold the veneer in place. The all wood tanks had 12 ( or 13 ribs, I can't rememeber anymore) made of 1/8" plywood glassed to the inside of the tank with 2" glass tape to stiffen it up. The entire tank was sealed in a thin coat of epoxy, applied with a squeegee. The tanks were then fit in the hull and glassed along the cockpit floor and bulkheads (To the diagonal bulkhead through the holes that were made for compass installation). The all wood tanks are fragile, typically the rib gets delaminated from the tank when the driver or crew land on it too hard. The repair involves trimming the debonded glass and reglassing it to the tank through the compass hole or inspection port hole. Thin, long arms are a plus. The composite core tanks are stronger, but can be punctured with objects like a trapeze hook. Any holes should be repaired from the inside if possible, and then have a piece of veneer scarfed in to match the wood look.

The finish on all the wood was done in consistent manner. All wood was sealed with epoxy applied with a squeegee. The visible surfaces were then wetsanded with 220 grit paper or drysanded with 180 grit. The bulkheads in the space between the watertight and diagonal bulkheads and the centerboard trunk and cap were finished with two coats of clear Awlgrip using a brush, and sanding between coats. The center spine, thwarts,and cap were sprayed with two coats before installation into the boat. After the boat was assembled, the hull and cockpit floor was masked off, and the deck, tanks, rails, transom and aft side of the diagonal bulkhead were finished with two coats of clear Awlgrip, sprayed. A little touchup was done on the front thwart, to finish the edge of the cap, which was routed to fit the thwarts. Early boats were made with Gougeon epoxy, but we switched to Reichold in about 1978 because the mechanical properties were better, and it did not get that hazy white look when exposed to moisture.

To refinish the wood you need to sand all dings, and seal them with epoxy resin. It is ok to fill with the clear epoxy to fill in minor gouges. Bigger gouges can be filled with veneer by scarfing in a new piece. The supplier we had for the mahogay veneer was ML Condon in New York, but I don't even know if they are in business or sell the veneer any more. You should test for leaks at this point, before finishing. Leaks often develop around the pvc tubes which the forestay and shrouds go through. A good method for leak testing is to pressurize the tanks and watertight compartment and apply soapy water to any suspicious places. Leaks will cause bubbles to form. Once all the wood is sealed, sand everything to make it smooth. You do not need to sand all the way down to the epoxy. If you are taking the finish off down to bare wood you need to be careful about sanding through the thin layer of veneer on the plywood. It is only 1/32" thick and it is easy to sand through, especially on the foredeck at the watertight bulkhead. You do not need to remove the epoxy to get a nice finish. The boat I sail in is the very first Lindsay (6821), and we have never stripped the epoxy finish off. Once everything is sealed and smooth, brush on one or two coats of clear awlgrip, sanding between coats. Spraying awlgrip is very difficult, I don't recommend you try even if you are used to spraypainting. The awlgrip has a 20 minute set time, and there is very little margin between orangepeel caused by too little material to runs caused by too much. If there are areas that are damaged by fittings, etc. fill the area with a mixture of resin and chopped fiber or glass bubbles, or scarf in new wood. Epoxy with microballons is too weak.

To keep the wood in top condition, make sure that you seal dings with epoxy or 2 part polyeurethane (awlgrip). If you use gougeon resin, you must sand and paint over with poly to keep it from turning white from moisture.

[505 Home]